Thursday 29 October 2015

An intimate Jazz Festival in the Mega-city

Well... the Kaslo Jazz Festival has its' scenery, the Montreal Jazz Festival has its' crowds and it turns out my school neighbourhood has an amazing Jazz Festival which is all about intimacy. This neighbourhood is a warren of little narrow alleys packed with tiny little restaurants and bars that barely have room for 10 people in them.

Well... little did we know that this area is also a hot bed for jazz and blues. Last weekend the whole area was hopping with jazz with 12 free venues all day then over 50 (!) pubs and bars with Jazz musicians into the wee hours of the morning.

Shelley and I walked around soaking in the beautiful music surrounded by the futuristic buildings and trains of Tokyo mixed with the incredible friendliness and warmth of our neighbours.
check out the site here.

Just to give you a sense of our evening we started in the main huge square...




Check out the train zipping by above. 


 As the evening wore on we wandered into some of the side streets...


 to glory in the intimacy of the little restaurants...


and bars...


And just catch music all over the place...



Suddenly an 85 year old man popped up with his harmonica and got the crowd roaring...



We finished the night at Starbucks (ah... good old Starbucks) that provided the venue for this bluegrass being played by these young guys who spend two years studying music at Boston College!



Feeling totally washed by beautiful music and great energy we hopped on our bikes and cruised without a sound through the narrow quiet streets..


 back home from...ANOTHER amazing day in Tokyo.

Thursday 15 October 2015

Being illiterate

Part of the reason we are so surprised and amazed to find things we're looking for or delight in is because we can't read most signs. There are not a lot of international symbols used here.
Thankfully in the subway, many streets, and a few places we can sound out the Romanji,  Romanji uses our alphabet with only a few changes to sound out Japanese words. Then you just hope they are words out know.


So you think that you can figure out when this place is open.......which days? And is it the kindergarten I was looking for? The top line is in hiragana and the rest is in kanji. And I dare you to phone the number and ask, and understand the answer.


Today I took Dan's bike to the bike store and it was closed there was a sign on the window with times written on so I could tell that someday it would be open from 10 - 8, but everything else was in Hirigana (Japanese characters). I stopped a woman on the street to ask if it was open today. When she said yes, then I knew I just needed to wait five minutes 'til it opened.

So all you English speaking Sherlock Holmes look at this ticket.
You see the arrow in the middle, and deduce that we go from the first word to the second. We think it's Shinjuku, which is three syllables not two. We do google translate and it translates the characters as lovely spring or something like that, ......which does not help us know where the train leaves from.
So we go ask our lovely Japanese house mother for the International students next door. She laughs...ha, ha no Hiragana, which is the phonetic Japanese writing. This is Kanji, the Chinese characters and the lovely flowery translation does mean Shinjuku actually. 



Sweet hole in the wall

I just said to Dan last week, " Wouldn't the ideal thing be if we found one of these sweet little restaurants but with the eating area faced to their back yard, instead of out to the busy street. He said, "harrumph." Then yesterday he noticed this place on our way down the back streets to the museums in Ueno. Tiny yard but they created a whole quiet, relaxing scene to rest in.



AND a beautiful, friendly retriever! 





Marlaina has the same little antiques toilet paper holders and bird cages. Oh, fabulous taste! 
In every way. How do like the little glass bird on the bill holder?



Friday 9 October 2015

What makes an art experience?



We have traditionally been to museums where we look AT art. We stand in front of the work, we stand back from it.

We had the opportunity to head off during the Silver Week holiday not to be confused with the Golden week to visit a mysterious series of art islands we had heard of nestled in the middle of the Inland Sea.


Enter the art at the Benesee Art Islands in the Haranada Sea. This sea has the city of Kobe on the north east side and Okayama on the west, and many beautiful little islands. These islands are protected in an inland sea but like a lot of Japan suffered from change of industry and lack of population starting in the late 70's. 

Once again Dan, bend, duck, step through that little hole, already in the art in our ancient air B and B lodging.


We began this journey by staying in an 100 year old hotel in Uno,which at first took a bit to warm up to. We lived in this old history with a lively young woman who seems to have inherited it.


 Check out, yes, again, old or new, the light from shoji screens is a bit of the divine. The young woman creatively filled any holes in the bamboo walls with paper stars. Do something funky with the old to make it work for a new time, like what we were about to investigate further.


This whole area is a re visioning of rural space sponsored by the Bennessee corporation as their gift to Japan. Click here to see their work.

 First Art island Teshima. Of course we had to bike around to truly get the feel of the area.




After being the only ones who swam here we headed into the first Art House near the beach. In the darkness of a little old closed up house you walk through the sound of different people's heart beats recorded by people from all around the world. Afterwards are invited to record your own heartbeat to add to the display.


We road from village to village to visit different temples & art houses. The Art Houses are a way of bringing life back to communities plagued by abandoned houses. Artists from around the world are spoonsored to come and revisualize the spaces. Check out some of these.

A take off on traditional Japanese homes-

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A re-look at an abandoned fisherman home-

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An abandoned community centre turned into an art statement-



And of course natural beauty-


Lovely rocks and hillsides with restored rice paddies are part of the new art projects on each of the islands.


In this hillside is nestled the most amazing museum which would more aptly be called an experience where water, light, air and concrete blend for an extremely powerful art experience rather than art viewing. You are asked to take off your shoes and to be quiet to fully engage in the experience.





Nestled among the breathtaking modern were the little shrines linking us to the long history of Japan.





From there we went on to Naoshima Island, the center piece of the Bennessee re-visioning. The whole island is covered with artistic creations, both the kitsh and the sublime-



Catchy-kitsch from re-purposed ocean flotsam & jetsam.




For our climbers Alexis & Sarah.



Old walls with a burnt finish, reused for fences.

Mom remember that trumpet flower you worked so hard to keep. Here, they are all over the place, and 3x as high as me.

On Noashima island, a caution...where seniors are more populous than children. Should we be printing this sign up for the Kootenays?


More Art House projects-



Art at an old temple...."climbing a stairway to heaven."



Glass stairs and string art on walls. 









Lovely light from the garden on a beautifully plated lunch in an old home.


 A tin house, artsy outside, the inside made  to resemble the inside of a ship.

And then the amazing, heart stopping Chi Chu Art Museum, a dramatic and sharp building designed by Tadoa Ando to be entirely lit by natural light-






There were only three main collections in the museum but each one was stupendous. First you walk up to the museum along a path lined with lilly pads to prepare you for an exhibit of the last four paintings Monet did. We  never knew these existed; huge paintings lit by natural light.


From there up a dramatic stair case in concrete-


to Walter de Marias installation that is the size of a cathedral-


to our absolute favourites from the incredible work by the Quaker artist James Turrell; check out this link for the amazing work he has done around the world.



This one is called Sky where you just sit and watch the sky as it drifts by through this frame... again being IN the art...



When we left the museum our senses were totally washed through with the beauty and awe of these sights so we mellowed into the setting sun on our bikes and enjoyed a sashimi meal and the setting sun.









The last art island we visited was Inujima Art Island. This had been a very industrial island that had all of its industry abandoned 80 years ago leaving crumbling remains. Again the challenge was to use art as a means of revitalising the island. 




An old smelter...



Art tiles...



Amazing growth sweeping over and engulfing old buildings...
Why can't I even get Pampas grass to come out of the ground?


Only to discover, tucked in among the old and battered houses a huge art-piece. This one is called the contacts...

Get it.....huge contact lenses in a transparent wall.

I caught Dan in this display of huge lens in one of  the gardens.

And of course another amazing museum created out of decay and destruction...





With an exhibit of a famous author and his house parts hung in the museum..



And once again amazing Art Houses sprinkled around the community...





A lush flower wall outside! 



Another house transitioning into art.

Then did some Japanese artist know about the phrase "to be in the dog house."

A mosaic dog pokes out of a house on the ocean channel.



We returned to Tokyo totally awash in having walked through, breathed, and experienced ART in new ways and in new places. What an amazing experience and a fascinating experiment in art as a form of community renewal. 

By the way, these islands have become magnets for art lovers from around the world. Each site was filled with people totally appreciating the art. 

First sight of Fuji on the train home... of course through the electrical wires.